Unlike many other floorcloth artists, I do not hem or turn under the edges and stiffen with glue.  As the flooccloth wears, it will do so evenly and you will never have a double edge impression. 

Traditional floorcloths were not hemmed, but lay flat, due to the weight of the the canvas and the many coats of gesso, paint and sealer. Hemming is required when lighter weight canvas is used. Heavy weight canvas does not ripple at all and lays perfectly flat.

I start with a #8 (18oz.), 100% pure cotton heavyweight duck canvas made specifically for floorcloth applications.  The canvas is stretched and secured around a wood frame and soaked with hot water allowing the cloth to tighten as it shrinks.  

Two coats of Gesso is applied to the front and back, followed by two coats of primer and two coats of the base color. This gives each floorcloth its superior strength to hold up to heavy traffic and to lay flat.

The design is hand-applied using water-based, non-toxic, superior quality, latex or acrylic paints. Upon completion of the design each floorcloth then receives three to four topcoats of a non-yellowing, water-based polyurethane sealer before the trimming process.

Once the floorcloth is cut to the desired shape, the edges are sealed and another few coats of sealer are applied. To prevent the rugs from sliding on a smooth floor, the backside receives a coat of non-toxic nonskid rubber backing.

Installation

There are a few things you should know before you lay your floorcloth in place. The relative thinness and flexibility of the floorcloth allow it to take on characteristics of the surface beneath it. For this reason, place your rug on as clean and flat surface as possible.

The edges of these floorcloths are sealed and finished, without the need to hem the edge.  The weight of the canvas is sufficient to lay flat without turning edges under. The back is coated with a rubberized backing to help it be slip resistant.

When your floorcloth arrives, remove it from the shipping tube and allow to come to room temperature for 24 hours. If the weather is cold, the floorcloth will be cold as well when you receive it; do not try to force it open, let it warm  up to room temperature and then unroll it gently. Give the rug time to relax and flatten out naturally. Do not force the floorcloth to unroll, it will return to its flat, flexible self.

Never bend or fold a floorcloth as this can cause cracks or leave a permanent crease.

Consider what furniture will be placed on top of the rug and check for feet that could scratch it. If necessary, use a protective coaster under the leg or a plastic glide attached to the leg itself. These will protect the floorcloth surface.

Cleaning

Soft soapy water with mild dish detergent and a damp sponge or sponge mop are all that you need for regular care.

After mopping the floorcloth with soapy water, rinse off any soapy residue and wipe dry.

Avoid abrasive, gritty cleaners - except in liquid form; oil soaps, alcohol - and - ammonia based cleaners.

Your floorcloth will last longer and be easier to maintain if you periodically renew the wax coating. Remove old wax by washing the rug with hot water and a mild liquid abrasive cleanser. Thoroughly clean and dry the rug and apply a thin coat of clear non-yellowing paste wax (bowling alley wax). Allow the wax to dry before buffing it to a sheen with a soft cloth